![]() I chased little dots of rust, not only on the outside of the block, but also on the nice cylinder bores I had torque honed. Like concrete, the substance had been mixed with water. Way back about 1982, I had a customer’s block someone filled with some sort of industrial equipment, concrete type grout. Many had some very shocking and ill effects. We towed back and had at least an hour between rounds.īefore Hard Blok, many racers and engine builders experimented filling blocks with various substances. Plus, I am not sure about cooling even for some bracket racing.Īt RT 66 Drag Strip in Joliet, they go “round robin” by the semis. There is no release for block fillers that I know of. So I did not fill those blocks.Ī big thing to consider before filling blocks to the deck or even 1.5″ below, as I did, is that block is then dedicated to short term cooling. The sleeves might bend a bit, but never break. I did have a couple 427 aluminum Cleveland blocks that had 4.125 ID Ramsco steel sleeves. Hard Blok is not quite as easy to use as the aluminum liquid epoxy, but the $400 saved to safely do the same thing is well worth the slight extra effort, in my opinion. On the other hand, a tub of Hard Blok is about $85 for a short fill and $92 for the larger tub. Today, the cost of that epoxy needed to do a small block would be about $500. It bonded to anything, had nil shrinkage or expansion when hardened and weighed slightly less than the water it displaced. It was easy to use and it poured like cake batter. Then when I mention the efficiency and no bills during the summer due to some help from the solar panels and maybe $200 for the winter they suddenly realize that paying money for quality building techniques to begin with is ultimately worth it.Today, racers have the luxury of a low-cost block filler called Hard Blok, provided by Joel Bayless.īack in my early Pro Stock days, when I was racing Cleveland small blocks, we had to use a very expensive Devcon aluminum epoxy. Now when people come round to.our house I the summer and see how tinted dounle glazed windows and insulation keeps the heat out and in the winter the wall radiators are the most awesome heat there's oike a light bulb moment. So because they weren't educated as to how to get rhe best of both worlds, warm in winter cool I summer the default position is to hedge your bets and go for what suits for the longest periods. that's fine for the northern states where you want heat to dissipate quickly once the sun goes down but its no good for cold winters. Houses were often built with no insulation in the roof at all and timber frame with a timber external clad. I have never understood the logic behind spending all that enery heating air which has alkost no thermal mass!! Houses here usually have ducted air and because energy used to be very cheap the dominant reasoning for purchase and therefor most used was purchase price regardless of how inefficient the system is. So when i built my house 6 or so years ago the builder looked at me like i was from mars when I mentioned i wanted double glazed windows and a boiler central heating system sometimes called hydronic. It took a while to figure out but it comes down to inappropriate materials and poor knowledge or techniques and technology. Given the winters in UK and NY you'd imagine a Melbourne winter would be no problem for me, but even a state where a frost on the windscreen during the winter is considered bloody freezing I was amazed at how cold the houses were.
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